If you live in Colombo, when was the last time you strolled unhurriedly the length of a side road, pausing to listen for birdcalls, trace the unpredictable path of a butterfly’s flutter, or admire the colourful variety of the trees? When was the last time you walked, rather than drove, between nearby destinations, choosing to enjoy some of the green with which Colombo is graced? When was the last time, faced with a moment of leisure, you escaped to an outdoor urban retreat and fantasised about a Colombo cooled by shade trees, softened by the singing of birds and mellowed by a peppering of clean parks, safe recreation areas for children, and perhaps even lakeside esplanades? Because few people opt for walking there isn’t the realisation of how much nature Colombo actually does have to offer the resident and visitor, and how easily accessible its flora and fauna are. Today, the streets of Colombo are not places in which people often idle. Nevertheless, havens do exist, most of them tantalisingly tranquil, where the ecologically aware can indulge their senses and be amply rewarded.
WHERE TO GO
Beira Lake, The recently restored Beira Lake covers the districts of Colpetty, Slave Island and Maradana (Colombo 3, 2 and 10). The part of the lake most easily enjoyed from the shoreline promenade is the Colpetty enclosure, framed by Sir James Pieris Mawatha (east), Perahera Mawatha (south) and Navam Mawatha (north). Of note are the little cormorant and spotted-bill pelican populations. The latter is a nationally threatened species.
Galle Face Green, a wide spread of land was originally used by the British army as a parade ground - and an execution place for mutinous soldiers. Today this open space serves as an ideal spot for lovers who hide from gazing crowds and the sun behind umbrellas; a playground for children with roadside vendors selling brightly coloured balloons, kites, toys, soft drinks and ices; an arena for professional to debate issues of the day; and a popular hangout for teenagers. During the evenings, one can enjoy the colourful kites flying in the sky and eat from the varied vendors who sell banana chips and fried lentils. Gale Face has no barriers; over the years many political rallies and musical extravaganzas have been hosted at the venue. Used for horse racing a century ago, and the promenade along the sea, which stretches for nearly a mile, was built in 1859 by the British Governor Sir Henry Ward for 'the ladies and children of Colombo'. Thanks to his foresight, the Green retains much of its old charm, with no buildings to mar the beauty of the wide open space.
Viharamahadevi Park Once known as Victoria Park, this British-landscaped oasis was established as a botanical garden and conservatory for tropical species. Colombo’s richest display of woody plants, it is still an excellent habitat for birds, butterflies and some mammals (rodents, palm squirrels, and flying fox bats). The park abuts Town Hall, in Cinnamon Gardens (Colombo 7), between Ananda Coomaraswamy Mawatha (south) and Dharmapala Mawatha (north).
Kanatta General Cemetery & Ridgeway Golf Links, These adjacent expanses of green, also known as Borella Cemetery and the Royal Colombo Golf Club, are retreats for both animals and human appreciators of nature. Situated in Borella (Colombo 8), east of Elvitigala Mawatha (Baseline Road) and south of Bauddhaloka Mawatha, the cemetery is open to all. Permission must be requested for entry to the golf links southeast of the cemetery and accessed via Venerable Pelpola Vipassi Himi Mawatha.
Avenue Plantations In Cinnamon Gardens between Vihara Mahadevi Park and Borella Cemetery, the rural allure of the original Dutch plantations was retained by the British and new exotic trees were added to the indigenous mix. Today, serene thoroughfares like Wijerama Mawatha and Gregory’s Road are shaded by towering foliage and enlivened by birds and butterflies. Large villas along Albert Crescent and Horton Place have visible home gardens as they are called, which foster the sense of nature with fruit-bearing and flowering vegetation.
Talangama Tank This beyond-the-city-frontiers wetland—whose surface is often covered with the lily-like leaf of the lotus yam—east of Battaramulla is well worth the effort to get to. Pictorial posters designed by the University of Colombo’s Field Ornithology Group of Sri Lanka and the Overseas School of Colombo describe the area’s abundant flora and fauna.
The Dehiwala Zoo is one of Colombo’s special attractions and is spread over 37 acres. Set amongst trees, shrubs, flowers and lakes, approx. 2000 animals can be viewed. The zoo has a Reptile House Aviary, Nocturnal House, Butterfly Park and Swan Pond. The Mini Medura Aquarium displays over 500 species of fish. Visitors can also enjoy watching the Seal and Elephant show that is held daily in the evenings.
The Muthurajawela Marsh is Sri Lanka’s largest saline wetlands. Situated north of Colombo, it is spread over 3100 hectares and is full of mangroves and varied species of butterflies and birds. The marsh is popular for bird-watching enthusiasts.
What to look for
Trees
Banyan (Ficus benghalensis) This tall and sprawling evergreen, sacred to Buddhists and Hindus, spreads a wide canopy and is notable for the roots dropped from and supporting its branches. (Sinhala: maha nuga; Tamil: arl)
Bo Tree or Peepul (Ficus religiosa) Broad and tall, the deciduous bo tree with its distinctive heart-shaped leaf with a long pointed tip is venerated by Buddhists and usually encircled by a shrine. (Sinhala: bo; Tamil: aresu)
Cluster Fig (Ficus racemosa) A tall tree with an irregular ragged crown, its trunk of pinkish-brown bark is often buttressed. In season, clusters of large, red, inedible figs weigh down its branches. (Sinhala: attikka; Tamil: atti)
Flamboyant or Flame Tree (Delonix regia) Originally from Madagascar, this deciduous tree takes its name from its brilliant orange and scarlet flowers. Its characteristic flat canopy and sinewy branches are easy to identify. (Sinhala: mai mara; Tamil: mayaram)
Rain Tree (Albizia saman) Of Central American origin, this tree’s tall trunk is partially hidden by a dense canopy and, in season, clusters of pink powder-puff flowers. Its olive-green, pinnate leaves droop and fold with changes in humidity at dusk and before rain. (Sinhala: para mara; Tamil: enal vakai)
Pihimbiya (Filicium decipiens) A dark brown, lightly furrowed bark and long leaflets with winged stems set apart the round-crowned pihimbiya. One little piece of its timber built into a roof is said to bring good luck. (Sinhala: pihimbiya; Tamil: chittirai vempu)
Ceylon Ironwood (Mesua ferrea) Sri Lanka’s national tree is found in front of Town Hall with, in season, its large, white, yellow-centred flower. The slender lance-shaped leaf is dark pink when young and shiny green with a white underside when mature. (Sinhala: na; Tamil: nagakuram)
Margosa or Neem (Azadirachta indica)The light green, serrated-edge leaflets, feathery foliage and sparse crown of the medium-tall margosa are its identifying features. Juice from its leaf is antiseptic and an excellent insect deterrent. (Sinhala: kohomba; Tamil: arulundi)
Birds
House Crow (Corvus splendens) A common urban scavenger, smaller and peskier than the jungle crow, with a smoky grey neck and glossy black wings. (Sinhala: kolamba kaputa; Tamil: oor kakam)
Rock Pigeon (Columba livia) The standard urban dove-like bird with a dark grey mantle and wings. (Sinhala: gal parawiya; Tamil: mada pura)
Common Myna (Acridotheres tristis) Distinguishable from the crow by its yellow beak, mask and legs, as well as its squeaks and chatters. (Sinhala: maina; Tamil: nakanam patchi)
Jungle Crow (Corvus macrorhynchos) The bold all-black bird whose caw-caw is common throughout Colombo. (Sinhala: kalu kaputa; Tamil: kakam)
Red-Vented Bulbul (Pycnonotus cafer)This bird has a black head, mottled brown body, bright vermilion under tail-coverts, and loud calls ranging from a tchreek to something similar to “ginger beer”. (Sinhala: kondaya kondakurulla; Tamil: konday kuruvi)
Indian Koel (Eudynamys scolopacea) Like a crow in all ways, the Indian koel has a long tail and call (hueeyo hueeyo) and leaves its eggs to be raised by crows. (Sinhala: koha; Tamil: kuyil)
Common Tailorbird (Orthotomus sutorius) Fabled for its nest of stitched-together leaves, this bird with a beige head, dark greenish back and white belly holds its tail upright and has a high tiwer or twik birdcall. (Sinhala: battieca; Tamil: thaiyarkaran kuruvi)
Rose-Ringed Parakeet (Psittacula kramerii) Large flocks of this green-bodied myna-sized bird shriek from the trees. The long, graduated tail and rose-pink neck ring may be harder to spot. (Sinhala: mala girawa; Tamil: kili)
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